I, for one, am not really interested in projects that are just ideas with no prototype.
Overall perhaps having tags
Commercial
Stage: Idea
Stage: Planning
Stage: Prototype
Stage: Working
And a search mechanism that can handle "Water -commercial >Stage:Planning meaning I'm looking for water projects that aren't commercial but are more than at the planning stage.
Back to the drawing board. You need to start with a different chip that has sleep/wake capability. There is no reason why something like this shouldn't be able to run for a year on 2 AA batteries. I would suggest that on normal circumstnces it wakes up for long enough to measure the temperatue every ten minutes, connect once an hour with the last 6 readings unless there is an alarm condition.
Your speed isn't much better than a person with a hoe.
Feet aren't precise enough for steering. If you are going to use feet, you need a non-linear actuator. That is, initially it takes a lot of foot movement to make a small correction, then the amount of steering per foot inch increses.
Overall a better strategy: Get your rows right the first time. Use the idea of a row set: If you plant 4 rows at a time, then those 4 rows get weeded as a set every time. If you do this, then all your culvators can be on the exact same spacing.
Now the cultivators ride at the front -- by the steering. So you are watching the culivators and the steering at the same time. None of this turning around. This may mean you hve to put a water tank on the front to put enough weight there. A tank allows you to adjust weight. Put baffles in the tank so you don't get too much weight on one side when doing a side hill.
If you want to run 2 independent cultivators, have one fixed, You position it by steering. And one movable. You have a hand lever for it. Set up your steering for the other hand.
1. Detail on the controller for the deicing cable.
2. 9200 cubic inches of sand is somewhere between 5 and 6 cubic feet. Sand runs 150 lbs per cubic foot, increasing to 200 lbs /cuft if wet. This will require a heavier frame. I suspect taht this one, as diagrammed will sag and sink into the ground.
Suggestion: Use 3 2x4's on edge under the bottom. Secure every 8" with 2" deck screws -- ceramic coated (green or grey, not yellow)
For legs use doubled 2x4 and use 3 rows of 3. At attachment locations cut 16 x 16 right triangles of plywood to use as gusset joints.
3. The sand will get wet. Everything todo with gardening gets wet. Build your table with a 2" slant and have drain holes in one edge or corner.
4. Use coarse builders sand or even washed gravel if you don't want water to hang around inside.
5. The cable only needs to be held still while you put the gravel in. Duct tape or red tyvek sideing tape should work long enough for that, and has less chemical leaching.
6. You must use a weatherproof box for you connections. I would put the weatherproof box on a scrap of wood and put it under the germinator. If it's on a scrap, you can easily unfasten the scrap and bring it out to work on it. Being under the germinator will give in additional protection.
7. You must wire this through a ground fault interupter circuit. Otherside if a fault develops in that cable you could be pushing daiseys.
Further directions and ideas.
If the lid is easily removable, you can work from both sides.
If you are off grid, putting the entire device on an array of black plastic barrels then wrapping that array with clear plastic may generate enough heat. If you do this, don't insulate the bottom. If you end up doing a lot of starts this may have advantages even if you are on the grid.
You can achieve better temperature control if you separate the barrels from the germinator, (put the insulation back) and have a tiny pump to move warm water though tubes in the the sand.
Comments
too soon
I, for one, am not really interested in projects that are just ideas with no prototype.
Overall perhaps having tags
And a search mechanism that can handle "Water -commercial >Stage:Planning meaning I'm looking for water projects that aren't commercial but are more than at the planning stage.
Battery use.
Back to the drawing board. You need to start with a different chip that has sleep/wake capability. There is no reason why something like this shouldn't be able to run for a year on 2 AA batteries. I would suggest that on normal circumstnces it wakes up for long enough to measure the temperatue every ten minutes, connect once an hour with the last 6 readings unless there is an alarm condition.
Not enough information.
If you want to have it here you should tell people how to build it.
If you won't tell people how to build it, you can't claim open source licensing.
Going to your website there are no plans, no instructions. In my book, you fail to meet the spirit of this site.
Steering control
Your speed isn't much better than a person with a hoe.
Feet aren't precise enough for steering. If you are going to use feet, you need a non-linear actuator. That is, initially it takes a lot of foot movement to make a small correction, then the amount of steering per foot inch increses.
Overall a better strategy: Get your rows right the first time. Use the idea of a row set: If you plant 4 rows at a time, then those 4 rows get weeded as a set every time. If you do this, then all your culvators can be on the exact same spacing.
Now the cultivators ride at the front -- by the steering. So you are watching the culivators and the steering at the same time. None of this turning around. This may mean you hve to put a water tank on the front to put enough weight there. A tank allows you to adjust weight. Put baffles in the tank so you don't get too much weight on one side when doing a side hill.
If you want to run 2 independent cultivators, have one fixed, You position it by steering. And one movable. You have a hand lever for it. Set up your steering for the other hand.
More detail, and possible options.
1. Detail on the controller for the deicing cable.
2. 9200 cubic inches of sand is somewhere between 5 and 6 cubic feet. Sand runs 150 lbs per cubic foot, increasing to 200 lbs /cuft if wet. This will require a heavier frame. I suspect taht this one, as diagrammed will sag and sink into the ground.
Suggestion: Use 3 2x4's on edge under the bottom. Secure every 8" with 2" deck screws -- ceramic coated (green or grey, not yellow)
For legs use doubled 2x4 and use 3 rows of 3. At attachment locations cut 16 x 16 right triangles of plywood to use as gusset joints.
3. The sand will get wet. Everything todo with gardening gets wet. Build your table with a 2" slant and have drain holes in one edge or corner.
4. Use coarse builders sand or even washed gravel if you don't want water to hang around inside.
5. The cable only needs to be held still while you put the gravel in. Duct tape or red tyvek sideing tape should work long enough for that, and has less chemical leaching.
6. You must use a weatherproof box for you connections. I would put the weatherproof box on a scrap of wood and put it under the germinator. If it's on a scrap, you can easily unfasten the scrap and bring it out to work on it. Being under the germinator will give in additional protection.
7. You must wire this through a ground fault interupter circuit. Otherside if a fault develops in that cable you could be pushing daiseys.
Further directions and ideas.
If the lid is easily removable, you can work from both sides.
If you are off grid, putting the entire device on an array of black plastic barrels then wrapping that array with clear plastic may generate enough heat. If you do this, don't insulate the bottom. If you end up doing a lot of starts this may have advantages even if you are on the grid.
You can achieve better temperature control if you separate the barrels from the germinator, (put the insulation back) and have a tiny pump to move warm water though tubes in the the sand.